Showing posts with label Mademoiselle Duthé. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mademoiselle Duthé. Show all posts

The Language of Fashion

The Fashion Poll votes are all in and accounted for. The entire time I was shocked at how close each gown was in number of votes...there was never a difference over eight!

Total Votes = 84
Robe à l'anglaise 40 (47%)
*Robe à la française 44 (52%)*

Looks like the tradition french court gown is only slightly more preferred than the practical English styled gown.  Seems clear that we love both equally!

While on the subject of fashion, I wanted to share a description of a gown Mademoiselle Duthé wore one evening to the Opera in Paris, mind you she was always to be seen in remarkable fashion as she could afford it and didn't mind showing it off:

“...wearing a dress of withheld sighs (split with an underskirt), adorned with superfluous regrets (a gathered looped band of material), with, in the middle, some perfect naivety (knots of lace); it was garnished with indiscreet complaints (appliqué silk flowers) and ribbons of marked attention (wide bows); her shoes were hair-of the-Queen color (ash blonde), embroidered with diamonds in perfidious attack (a ray-like design) with the come-hithers (embroidery on the back of the heels) in emeralds." 

Now isn't that a lovely vision? I happen to have a pair of shoes that have the come-hithers in silk (well maybe in cotton)!  Can you imagine reading the fashion blogs of the 18th century?!

*I included the above picture to demonstrate emeralds in perfidious attack

Femme of the Week: La Duthé


"Let us say to the glory of Alençon that the toffee was accepted with more joy than la Duthé ever showed at a gilt service or a fine equipage offered by the Comte d'Artois."
Balzac, Honoré de. An Old Maid

Catherine Rosalie Gérard (La Duthé), in 1748, was born to win the hearts of many, become the talk of many, and be mocked by many.  She was a dancer at the Opéra in Paris and a star of the Champ-de-elysses.  She also dabbled with the aristocracy.  She had a charming laugh that rang through the halls, and charisma to match it.  Famously blond, she spoke with a pleasant ring to her voice which never sounded annoyed. 

She developed her own signature when performing on stage, a long pause after delivering lines.  She did not do this every time but often.  It certainly made an impression on the audience, and perhaps she aimed for a dramatic effect.

After a few performances, however, it led to the assumption that she was not all there, or possibly just could not remember her lines?  She took on the role of an assumed goose, and as author Joanna Pitman put it, she was empty headed and could not hold a conversation for anything!

But not everyone was interested in Rosalie's conversational skills.  She was captivating and happened to catch the eye of the duc d'Orléans.  In a scandalous instance it is said that he, in one way or another, asked or requested that she might spend some time with his son.  The purpose of the rendezvous would be to, "teach him the facts of life."

Her greatest catch was Louis XVI's brother, the Comte d'Artois.  The affair was short and sweet.  The Comte was slightly younger than Rosalie, and married.  And of course, she was not his only fling. The affair heated up sometime in 1775, and Rosalie received gifts and surprises from her generous Comte.  He "gave her a house in the Chaussée d'Antin," and even had the court painter Spaendonck hired to paint her boudoir.  Her new place, lavishly decorated, had cost the Comte three months and 80,000 pounds; all well spent on his pretty friend.

All the sparkle of her life led her to go around town flashing wealth and fabulousness to anyone who looked.  She called herself a sylph and her motto was: l'arc et le carquois de l'Amour.   Her acting career continued but she was becoming such a topic among gossips, she was soon the main character of a one act play. The play, debuting in Paris, while she was in residence, satirized Rosalie and her stage performances (the long pauses....the silence...etc).  It was called Les Curiosities de la Foire (Curiosities of the Fair). 

Three years prior to the Revolution she moved to England living off the generous sums she acquired from her French suitors.  When the Revolution began her property in France was confiscated. Around this time in 1792 she sat for a painting where she posed as she had seen a woman do in another painting she owned.  The artist, Danloux, chose to place her against a blue background, to him it was the color of blonds. He found the piece "very handsome, and above all a good likeness of the sitter."  

Fashion, du jour: A Language of Their Own



As interesting as the fashions of the day were themselves, names of styles, colors and details were just as fascinating.
In the autumn of 1779 a new color became the it color, and that was puce. Grayish brown. Lovely!

Named after a comment Louis made to Marie when he saw her in a dress of this muted color, Puce became all the rage. Puce, or, flea was a soft color but had many variations. That autumn you could find this Flea color everywhere, in shades of:
Back of a flea, Belly of a flea, Thigh of a flea (darker brownish), Blushing flea (pinkish tones) and Angry flea.
And who could forget the popular Caca Dauphin??? (brown shade inspired by diapers of a baby who is not potty trained)

But these names were the mere beginning whole new language tailored for this world of fashion, a strange new way of describing what was in among our fashionable friends.
Just to give you an example of how extensive this code or jargon became is noted in a report of the toilette of Mademoiselle Duthé, spotted at the Opera in 1788:

“...wearing a dress of withheld sighs (split with an underskirt), adorned with superfluous regrets (a gathered looped band of material), with, in the middle, some perfect naivety (knots of lace); it was garnished with indiscreet complaints (appliqué silk flowers) and ribbons of marked attention (wide bows); her shoes were hair-of the-Queen color (ash blonde), embroidered with diamonds in perfidious attack (a ray-like design) with the come-hithers (embroidery on the back of the heels) in emeralds."